Tag Archives: Pentagon Motif

Buzzy Bee Photo Prop


You know it’s springtime when you start seeing bees everywhere!

This pattern is yet one more in a line of cute photo props using the same exact pentagon motif!

Buzzy Bee Photo Prop

Materials required:

  • Hook sizes G and H
  • 4 ply yarn in yellow and black
  • Eyelash yarn in black
  • Tapestry needle
  • Transparent nylon sewing thread
  • Embroidery needle

Note: To make this prop larger, you would need to size your hook up. For each hook size up, you can add an approximate half to three quarters of an inch to the finished project.

Stitches used:

  • sl st (slip stitch)
  • ch (chain)
  • dc (double crochet)
  • fpdc (front post double crochet: complete the stitch around the post of the next indicated stitch by inserting the hook from front to back to front around the post)
  • v-st (v-stitch: [dc, ch 1, dc] in same space)

Pentagon Motif: Make 6: 3 yellow pentagons and 3 black pentagons.

Using main color (black or yellow), Ch 3, sl st to 1st ch to form a ring.

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), v-st 4 times in ring, dc in ring, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3. (10 dc)

Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), fpdc around ch 3 from round 1, fpdc around next dc, *v-st in next ch 1 sp, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, rep from * around to 1st ch 1 space, dc in 1st ch 1 sp, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3. (10 fpdc, 10 dc)

Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc), fpdc around ch 3 from round 2, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, *v-st in next ch 1 sp, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, rep from * around to 1st ch 1 space, dc in 1st ch 1 sp, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3. Finish off. (20 fpdc, 10 dc)

Round 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc), fpdc around ch 3 from round 3, fpdc around next 5 dc, *v-st in next ch 1 sp,  fpdc around next 6 dc, rep from * around to 1st ch 1 space, dc in 1st ch 1 sp, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3. Finish off. (30 fpdc, 10 dc)

Weave in all tails before moving on to next motif.

Assembly:

Start with your center motif. Arrange the yellow and black motifs as shown and prepare to assemble.  (Use pic as a general guide)

Quick Tip: When you are arranging your motifs, be sure that the side where you finished off and have a thread trailing is on the outside–that makes less tails to weave in later because you can crochet right over them when we get to the border!

Note: You can have either a yellow, black, yellow pattern OR a black, yellow, black pattern. Right now is the time to decide!

You will begin working the assembly with only your center motif. All flanking motifs will be joined by one side to the center first, (we will join the rest later).

Take your center motif and any flanking motif and place them wrong sides together.

Note: Keep in mind that your two motifs will be placed wrong sides together, so the back loops will be the two loops closest to each other.

Sew together your motifs using the transparent nylon sewing thread and an embroidery needle–making sure you are only sewing through the back loops of each motif.

The next thing we will need to do is to sew up the rest of the seams between each flanking motif.

Remember: when you join your motifs you want to make sure you are holding them wrong sides together.

When you are all done, you should have something like this–with all the tails from each motif out to the side:

Wrong Side of Buzzy Bee Prop

The only thing left to do with this blanket is the border and the stinger!

Border and Stinger:

Using an H hook, with the RIGHT SIDE of blanket facing you, combine one thread of 4 ply black with one thread of black eyelash yarn and join with a sl st in the ch 1 space located in the point of the black pentagon on the right of your work.

Ch 2,  dc in the same space as join, *dc all the way across to the next ch 1 space (8 dc), 2 dc in the ch 1 space, 2 dc in the next ch 1 sp, dc all the way across to the next ch 1 space (8 dc),  2 dc in the next ch 1 sp, continue from * around until you reach the center of the two bottom yellow pentagons.

2 dc in the ch 1 sp, sl st the two ch 1 spaces together, DROP THE EYELASH YARN and only crochet using the black 4 ply. Ch 8, (you can make this a little longer if you’d like. What you are going for here is sort of a one sided leaf shape.) In the second ch from hook, sl st, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st, sc in next st (tail made)

Pick up your eyelash yarn once again,  2 dc in the ch 1 space, dc all the way across to the next ch 1 space (8 dc),  2 dc in the next ch 1 sp, repeat from * around, join in the top of the ch 2. Finish off and weave in any remaining tails.

When you’re all done, your prop should look something like this:

Buzzy Bee Photo Prop: Top

Buzzy Bee Photo Prop: Bottom

All that’s left is to make a hat with two antenna’s.

Buzzy Bee Photo Prop Hat

Materials Needed:

  • Size G (4.5mm) crochet hook
  • Tapestry needle for weaving in ends.

Finished Sizes:
Preemie/12” (Baby/14”)

Ch 4, sl st into 1st ch to join rnd.

Rnd 1: With black: Ch 1, 8 sc into center of rnd, sl st to 1st sc to end rnd — 8 sc.

Rnd 2: Change to yellow. Ch 1 (counts as 1st sc), sc in same st, *2 sc in next st; rep from * around, sl st to beginning ch to end — 16 sc.

Rnd 3: Change to black. Ch 1 (counts as 1st sc), sc in same st, sc in next st, *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, sl st to beginning ch to end — 24 sc.

Rnd 4: Change to yellow. Ch 1 (counts as 1st sc), sc in same st, sc in next 2 sts, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, sl st to beginning ch to end — 32 sc.

Rnd 5: Change to black. Ch 1 (counts as 1st sc), sc in same st, sc in next 3 sts, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, sl st to beginning ch to end — 40 sc.

Rnd 6: Change to yellow. Ch 1 (counts as 1st sc), sc in same st, sc in next 4 sts, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts; rep from * around, sl st to beginning ch to end — 48 sc.

For size 12”/Preemie skip to Rnd 8. For size 14”/Baby proceed to next rnd.

Rnd 7: Change to black. Ch 1 (counts as 1st sc), sc in same st, sc in next 5 sts, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts; rep from * around, sl st to beginning ch to end — 56 sc.

Rnd 8: *If you are joining from Rnd 6, change to black.* Change to yellow. Ch 1 (counts as 1st sc), sc in each st around, sl st to beginning ch to end — 48 (56) sc.

Repeat Rnd 8, alternating black and yellow stripes until hat measures 4.5 (5.5)” or until desired length.

Optional: When your hat reaches the desired length, join eyelash yarn with a sl st in any stitch. Hdc in each st around.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Antenna (make 2)

Use two stitch markers to mark where to place the antenna’s.

Attach black yarn with a sl st, ch 10, sc in 3rd ch from hook, sl st down the length of the antenna, sl st around post of the st on hat where attached. Fasten off and weave in tails.

 

I hope you’ve had fun with this project. If you make one and want to share your pics, I’D LOVE TO SEE THEM! Pop on into our facebook group and post away!

Giraffe Photo Prop


How amazing is it when you can take a single motif and transform it into a bunch of different animals!!

I’ve taken the same motif and turned it into a turtle, a ladybug, a bee, and now a giraffe!

http://hodgepodgecrochet.wordpress.com: Giraffe Photo Prop

Materials required for pentagon:

  • Hook sizes G and E
  • tapestry needle
  • Red Heart Super Saver in Coffee and Gold

Note: To make this prop larger, you would need to size your hook up. For each hook size up, you can add an approximate half to three quarters of an inch to the finished project.

Pentagon Motif: Make 6

Stitches used:

  • sl st (slip stitch),
  • ch (chain),
  • dc (double crochet),
  • fpdc (front post double crochet: complete the stitch around the post of the next indicated stitch by inserting the hook from front to back to front around the post),
  • v-st (v-stitch: [dc, ch 1, dc] in same space).

Using Coffee, Ch 3, sl st to 1st ch to form a ring.

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), v-st 4 times in ring, dc in ring, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3. (10 dc)

Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), fpdc around ch 3 from round 1, fpdc around next dc, *v-st in next ch 1 sp, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, rep from * around to 1st ch 1 space, dc in 1st ch 1 sp, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3. (10 fpdc, 10 dc)

Change color to Gold. Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc), fpdc around ch 3 from round 2, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, *v-st in next ch 1 sp, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, rep from * around to 1st ch 1 space, dc in 1st ch 1 sp, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3. Finish off. (20 fpdc, 10 dc)

Round 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc), fpdc around ch 3 from round 3, fpdc around next 5 dc, *v-st in next ch 1 sp,  fpdc around next 6 dc, rep from * around to 1st ch 1 space, dc in 1st ch 1 sp, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3. Finish off. (30 fpdc, 10 dc)

Weave in all tails before moving on to next motif.

Assembly:

Start with your center motif. Arrange the other 5 motifs around the center and prepare to assemble.

You will be working the assembly with only your center motif. All flanking motifs will be joined by one side to the center first, (we will join the rest later).

Take your center motif and any flanking motif and place them wrong sides together.

Note: Keep in mind that your two motifs will be places wrong sides together, so the back loops will be the two loops closest to each other.

Using an E hook and your gold yarn, join in ch 1 space of both motifs. Working back loops only, *sl st across to next ch 1 sp. Sl st in ch 1 space and arrange your next flanking motif—wrong sides together, with the center motif. Sl st in ch 1 space of new motif and center motif. Continue from * until all flanking motifs are joined by one side to center motif.

Just like with the ladybug prop, the next thing we will need to do is to sew up the rest of the seams between each flanking motif.

There are two ways you can do this. Remember: when you join your motifs you want to make sure you are holding them wrong sides together.

The hard way: Since your yarn is already attached to your hook, simply sl st that first seam between the flanking pentagons closed–taking care to hold the motifs wrong sides together, finish off. Insert your hook into both ch 1 spaces at the base (close to the center pentagon) of the next two flanking pentagons. Attach your contrasting yarn with a sl st, sl st in the back loops only to the end of the pentagons and finish off. Continue around until all seams have been slip stitched closed. Weave in all those loose ends.

The easy way: The other way you could do it would involve a tapestry needle. Since your yarn is already attached to your hook, sl st that first seam between the flanking pentagons closed, finish off. Thread your tapestry needle with a long length of contrasting yarn and simply whip stitch the rest of your seams shut–taking care to whip-stitch in the back loops only and making sure that all of your motifs are being held wrong sides together. In order to move your needle, simply thread it under your project, hiding the extra yarn in the undersides of your stitches.

If you’ve joined your motifs the hard way, now would be a good time to weave in all those loose tails in the center. Don’t worry about the loose tails that are to the outside of the shell because we’ll crochet right over them when we do the border.

Now we’re on the home stretch! The only thing left to do with this blanket is the border and the neck.

In order to put a border around our motifs, we’ll need to join red with a sl st in any ch 1 space located in a point of a pentagon (in other words, NOT in a valley portion where you have two ch 1 spaces side by side), ch 2,  dc in the same space as join, *dc all the way across to the next ch 1 space (8 dc), 2 dc in the ch 1 space, 2 dc in the next ch 1 sp, dc all the way across to the next ch 1 space (8 dc),  2 dc in the next ch 1 sp, continue from * around, join in the top of the ch 2. Finish off and weave in any remaining tails.

To create the neck portion of this blanket, you need to find the top pentagon and count the top most 8 stitches.

Sl st in the 8th stitch, ch 3, dc across the next 7 sts, ch 3, turn.

dc across the next 7 sts, ch 3, turn.

dc across the next 7 sts, finish off and weave in tail.

The last part of this giraffe is really what takes the entire prop to another level. It’s the hat!

Giraffe Photo Prop Hat (Pattern by Michelle Doolittle)

Materials used-

  • Red Heart Super Saver, Gold( less than 1/4 of the skein)
  • Red Heart Super Saver, Coffee( very small amount)
  • Small amount of stuffing for horns
  • Crochet Hook size H/8 (5mm)
  • Yarn needle

Stiches used-

  • Double crochet (dc)
  • Single crochet (sc)
  • Single crochet decrease (sc dec)
  • Slip Stitch (sl)
  • Chain (ch)
  • Magic ring

*Please note*-

For the horns and ears I chose not to join rounds, I worked them in a spiral using a marker to keep track of rounds. If you would like to join rounds you can do so by joining with a slip stich and chaining 1. For the Beanie the chain 2 at the beginning of each round does not count as a stitch.

Beanie with cuff:

with Gold

Rnd 1: make a magic ring, ch 2, 10 dc into the magic ring, pull tight, join with a sl st to the top of the 1st dc.

Rnd 2: ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, join. (20 dc)

Rnd 3: ch 2, dc in first st, 2 dc in next st, * dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, repeat from* around, join. (30 dc)

Rnd 4: ch 2, dc in first 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, *dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, repeat from* around, join. (40 dc)

Rnds 5- 10: ch 2, dc in each st around, join. (40 dc)

Rnd 11: ch 1, turn. (work this round in back loops only) sc in each st around, join. (40 sc)

Rnds 12-14: ch 1, sc in each stitch around, join and finish off. (40 sc)

Horns: make 2

with Coffee

Rnd 1: make a magic ring, ch 1, 6 sc in magic ring, pull tight, join with a sl st to the top of the 1st sc.

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12 sc)

Rnd 3: sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, repeat from* around. (18 sc)

Rnd 4: sc in each st around. (18 sc)

Rnd 5: sc in first st, sc dec, * sc in next st, sc dec, repeat from* around. (12 sc)

Rnd 6: sc in each st around changing to gold in last st. (12 sc)

Rnd 7-10: sc in each st around, at the end of rnd 10 sl st to next st, finish off leaving a long tail for sewing to the hat.

Ears: make 2

with Gold

Rnd 1: make a magic ring, ch 1, 6 sc in magic ring, pull tight, join with a sl st to the top of the 1st sc.

Rnd 2: 2 sc in st around. (12 sc)

Rnd 3: sc in each st around. (12 sc)

Rnd 4: sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, * sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, repeat from* around. (18 sc)

Rnd 5: sc in each st around. (18 sc)

Rnd 6: sc in each of the first 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, * sc in each each of the next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, Repeat from* around. (24 sc)

Rnds 7-10: sc in each st around. (24 sc)

Rnd 11: sc in first 2 sts, sc dec, * sc in next 2 sts, sc dec, Reapeat from* around. (18 sc)

Rnd 12: sc in each st around. (18 sc)

Rnd 13: sc in first st, sc dec, * sc in next st, sc dec, repeat from* around. (12 sc)

Rnd 14: sc in each st around, sl st to next st, finish off leaving a long tail for sewing to hat.

Finishing:

Lightly stuff each horn and sew to hat close to the top using photo as a guide for placement.

Flatten ears and sew to hat using photo as a guide for placement.

Weave in all end securely and enjoy!

Ladybug Photo Prop


Photography used with permission by Maryellen Lally-Godinez. Multiple Blessings Photography. All Rights Reserved.

This little cutie really was inspired by my recent fun with the Turtle Shell Photo Prop. I promised that I would remove my pattern for the turtle shell prop–but I never said I wouldn’t make anything else using the pentagons! Btw, if you want to make this as a turtle…. (I’ll let the rest click into place as I move on.)

;0)

So I started experimenting with ladybugs and what do you know!! This prop is just as cute as a little ladybug.

The pentagon pattern is exactly the same process as the turtle pentagon. The only difference is the color of yarn and where the color changes happen.

Top (or right side) of ladybug pentagon motif.

Bottom (or wrong side) of ladybug pentagon motif.

So grab your hooks and yarn and let’s get crocheting!

For a FREE pattern download, be sure to visit my Craftsy shop!

Craftsy.com

Materials required:

  • Hook sizes G and E
  • 4 ply yarn in red and black
  • Tapestry needle

Note: To make this prop larger, you would need to size your hook up. For each hook size up, you can add approximately half to three-quarters of an inch to the finished project.

Stitches used:

  • sl st (slip stitch)
  • ch (chain)
  • dc (double crochet)
  • fpdc (front post double crochet: complete the stitch around the post of the next indicated stitch by inserting the hook from front to back to front around the post)
  • v-st (v-stitch: [dc, ch 1, dc] in same space)

Pentagon Motif: Make 6: 3 SMALL spotted pentagons and 3 LARGE spotted pentagons.

Stitches used: sl st (slip stitch), ch (chain), dc (double crochet), fpdc (front post double crochet: complete the stitch around the post of the next indicated stitch by inserting the hook from front to back to front around the post), v-st (v-stitch: [dc, ch 1, dc] in same space).

Using black, Ch 3, sl st to 1st ch to form a ring.

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), v-st 4 times in ring, dc in ring, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3. (10 dc)

For SMALL spotted pentagon only, change color to red. For LARGE spotted pentagon, continue this round with black. Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), fpdc around ch 3 from round 1, fpdc around next dc, *v-st in next ch 1 sp, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, rep from * around to 1st ch 1 space, dc in 1st ch 1 sp, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3. (10 fpdc, 10 dc)

For SMALL spotted pentagon, continue round as normal. For LARGE spotted pentagon, change color to red. Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc), fpdc around ch 3 from round 2, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, *v-st in next ch 1 sp, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, rep from * around to 1st ch 1 space, dc in 1st ch 1 sp, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3. Finish off. (20 fpdc, 10 dc)

Round 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc), fpdc around ch 3 from round 3, fpdc around next 5 dc, *v-st in next ch 1 sp,  fpdc around next 6 dc, rep from * around to 1st ch 1 space, dc in 1st ch 1 sp, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3. Finish off. (30 fpdc, 10 dc)

Weave in all tails before moving on to next motif.

Assembly:

Start with your center motif. Arrange the other 5 motifs around the center and prepare to assemble.  (Use pic as a general guide)

You will be working the assembly with only your center motif. All flanking motifs will be joined by one side to the center first, (we will join the rest later).

Take your center motif and any flanking motif and place them wrong sides together.

Note: Keep in mind that your two motifs will be places wrong sides together, so the back loops will be the two loops closest to each other.

Using an E hook and your red yarn, join in ch 1 space of both motifs. Working back loops only, *sl st across to next ch 1 sp. Sl st in ch 1 space and arrange your next flanking motif—wrong sides together, with the center motif. Sl st in ch 1 space of new motif and center motif. Continue from * until all flanking motifs are joined by one side to center motif.

Just like with the turtle prop, the next thing we will need to do is to sew up the rest of the seams between each flanking motif.

There are two ways you can do this. Remember: when you join your motifs you want to make sure you are holding them wrong sides together.

The hard way: Since your yarn is already attached to your hook, simply sl st that first seam between the flanking pentagons closed–taking care to hold the motifs wrong sides together, finish off. Insert your hook into both ch 1 spaces at the base (close to the center pentagon) of the next two flanking pentagons. Attach your contrasting yarn with a sl st, sl st in the back loops only to the end of the pentagons and finish off. Continue around until all seams have been slip stitched closed. Weave in all those loose ends.

The easy way: The other way you could do it would involve a tapestry needle. Since your yarn is already attached to your hook, sl st that first seam between the flanking pentagons closed, finish off. Thread your tapestry needle with a long length of contrasting yarn and simply whip stitch the rest of your seams shut–taking care to whip-stitch in the back loops only and making sure that all of your motifs are being held wrong sides together. In order to move your needle, simply thread it under your project, hiding the extra yarn in the undersides of your stitches.

When you’ve finished sewing all the seams, your project should look like this:

If you’ve joined your motifs the hard way, now would be a good time to weave in all those loose tails in the center. Don’t worry about the loose tails that are to the outside of the shell because we’ll crochet over them when we do the border.

Now we’re on the home stretch! The only thing left to do with this blanket is the border and the neck.

In order to put a border around our motifs, we’ll need to join red with a sl st in any ch 1 space located in a point of a pentagon (in other words, NOT in a valley part where you have two ch 1 spaces side by side), ch 2,  dc in the same space as join, *dc all the way across to the next ch 1 space (8 dc), 2 dc in the ch 1 space, 2 dc in the next ch 1 sp, dc all the way across to the next ch 1 space (8 dc),  2 dc in the next ch 1 sp, continue from * around, join in the top of the ch 2. Finish off and weave in any remaining tails.

To create the neck part of this blanket, you need to find the top pentagon and count the top most 8 stitches. (I covered this in the turtle prop so I’ll just reuse that pic below to show you how to find the stitches.)

Find the center 8 stitches of the top pentagon to attach the neck part to your ladybug prop.

Sl st in the 8th stitch, ch 3, dc across the next 7 sts, ch 3, turn.

dc across the next 7 sts, ch 3, turn.

dc across the next 7 sts, finish off and weave in tail.

All that’s left is to make a hat with two antenna’s.

Ladybug Photo Prop Hat

Materials Needed:

  • Size G (4.5mm) crochet hook
  • 4 ply yarn in black
  • Tapestry needle for weaving in ends.

Finished Sizes:
Preemie/12” (Baby/14”)

Ch 4, sl st into 1st ch to join rnd.

Rnd 1: With black: Ch 1, 8 sc into center of rnd, sl st to 1st sc to end rnd — 8 sc.

Rnd 2: Ch 1 (counts as 1st sc), sc in same st, *2 sc in next st; rep from * around, sl st to beginning ch to end — 16 sc.

Rnd 3: Ch 1 (counts as 1st sc), sc in same st, sc in next st, *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, sl st to beginning ch to end — 24 sc.

Rnd 4: Ch 1 (counts as 1st sc), sc in same st, sc in next 2 sts, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, sl st to beginning ch to end — 32 sc.

Rnd 5: Ch 1 (counts as 1st sc), sc in same st, sc in next 3 sts, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, sl st to beginning ch to end — 40 sc.

Rnd 6: Ch 1 (counts as 1st sc), sc in same st, sc in next 4 sts, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts; rep from * around, sl st to beginning ch to end — 48 sc.

For size 12”/Preemie skip to Rnd 8. For size 14”/Baby proceed to next rnd.

Rnd 7: Ch 1 (counts as 1st sc), sc in same st, sc in next 5 sts, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts; rep from * around, sl st to beginning ch to end — 56 sc.

Rnd 8: Ch 1 (counts as 1st sc), sc in each st around, sl st to beginning ch to end — 48 (56) sc.

Repeat Rnd 8 until hat measures 4.5 (5.5)” or until desired length.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Antenna (make 2)

Use two stitch markers to mark where to place the antenna’s.

Attach black yarn with a sl st, ch 10, sc in 3rd ch from hook, sl st down the length of the antenna, sl st around post of the st on hat where attached. Fasten off and weave in tails.

When you’re all done, your prop should look like this:

I hope you’ve had fun with this project. If you make one and want to share your pics, I’D LOVE TO SEE THEM! Pop on into our facebook group and post away!

Infant Turtle Shell “Blanket”


**DISCLAIMER** Before I begin this tutorial, let me tell you that the basic pentagon, granny, hexagon etc. shapes are not copyrighted by anyone to my knowledge. This tutorial is copyrighted by me–but that doesn’t mean that somebody else can’t have ever made or can never make a pentagon or a hexagon.

Because we’re talking motif here, think of this project like a really small blanket. I know ANYONE who crochets has made at least one motif joined blanket (granny squares are really popular with new crocheters–AND THEY’RE MOTIFS).

The first motif pattern I want to show you how to make is the pentagon (5 sides).

Below that pattern I will take you through my version for the hexagon (6 sides) turtle shell blanket. My pattern is free to use and alter in any way–have at it and HAVE FUN!

Pentagon motif patterns are always a lot of fun to make and you can flip them and turn them to create all sorts of adorable projects. You can find loads of free patterns all over the internet for them, these are two of my favorites:

Basic Five Sided Pentagon Shape Granny Style Motif

Basic Five Sided Pentagon Shape-Free Crochet Pattern 

Once you have the basics down you can really turn this on its head and make the pentagon any way you want! This is what I’ve come up with.

These motifs (both the pentagons and the hexagons) utilize front post double crochet. If you aren’t familiar with how to work this stitch, then I think now would be a good time to CLICK HERE. The link will take you to YouTube where my favorite crochet teacher, Teresa, will show you how to work this stitch. If you’re a lefty, you’ll want to CLICK HERE. (She’s so awesome she can crochet with both hands.)

Now that you’re prepared, it’s time for the motif patterns.

Front (RIGHT SIDE) of Pentagon Motif

Back (WRONG SIDE) of Pentagon Motif

Front (RIGHT SIDE) of Hexagon Motif

Back (WRONG SIDE) of Hexagon Motif

Printable Pattern:

Find me (and this freebie plus so much more) on Craftsy:

Craftsy.com

Pentagon Motif Pattern

Materials Needed:

Hook sizes G and E, tapestry needle, Two colors of 4 ply worsted weight yarn (one will be MAIN and one will be CONTRAST)

Stitches used:

  • sl st (slip stitch)
  • ch (chain)
  • dc (double crochet)
  • fpdc (front post double crochet: complete the stitch around the post of the next indicated stitch by inserting the hook from front to back to front around the post)
  • v-st (v-stitch: [dc, ch 1, dc] in same space)

Pentagon Motif: 

Using main color, Ch 3, sl st to 1st ch to form a ring.

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), v-st 4 times in ring, dc in ring, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3. (10 dc)

Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), fpdc around ch 3 from round 1, fpdc around next dc, *v-st in next ch 1 sp, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, rep from * around to 1st ch 1 space, dc in 1st ch 1 sp, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3. (10 fpdc, 10 dc)

Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc), fpdc around ch 3 from round 2, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, *v-st in next ch 1 sp, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, rep from * around to 1st ch 1 space, dc in 1st ch 1 sp, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3. Finish off. (20 fpdc, 10 dc)

Using accent color, join in any ch 1 space with a sl st, ch 3, fpdc around ch 3 from round 3, fpdc around next 5 dc, *v-st in next ch 1 sp,  fpdc around next 6 dc, rep from * around to 1st ch 1 space, dc in 1st ch 1 sp, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3. Finish off and weave in all tails. (30 fpdc, 10 dc)

Hexagon Motif Blanket Shell Pattern

Materials Needed:

Hook sizes G and E, tapestry needle, Two colors of 4 ply worsted weight yarn (one will be MAIN and one will be CONTRAST)

Note: Hook sizes can be very tricky because everyone crochets with a different tension. If you tend to crochet tightly, your finished motif may be too small. If you crochet too loosely, your finished motif may be too large. For this project, the completed motif should measure 4 inches across (from point to point.) 

To make this prop larger, you would need to size your hook up. For each hook size up, you can add an approximate half to three quarters of an inch to the finished project. 

Stitches used:

  • sl st (slip stitch)
  • ch (chain)
  • dc (double crochet)
  • fpdc (front post double crochet: complete the stitch around the post of the next indicated stitch by inserting the hook from front to back to front around the post)
  • v-st (v-stitch: [dc, ch 1, dc] in same space)

Hexagon Motif: Make 7

Using main color, Ch 3, sl st to 1st ch to form a ring.

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), v-st 5 times in ring, dc in ring, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3. (12 dc)

Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), fpdc around ch 3 from round 1, fpdc around next dc, *v-st in next ch 1 sp, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, rep from * around to 1st ch 1 space, dc in 1st ch 1 sp, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3. (12 fpdc, 12 dc)

Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc), fpdc around ch 3 from round 2, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, *v-st in next ch 1 sp, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, fpdc around next dc, rep from * around to 1st ch 1 space, dc in 1st ch 1 sp, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3. Finish off. (24 fpdc, 12 dc)

Using accent color, join in any ch 1 space with a sl st, ch 3, fpdc around ch 3 from round 3, fpdc around next 5 dc, *v-st in next ch 1 sp,  fpdc around next 6 dc, rep from * around to 1st ch 1 space, dc in 1st ch 1 sp, ch 1, sl st to top of ch 3. Finish off. (36 fpdc, 12 dc)

Weave in all tails before moving on to next motif.

When you are finished with all 7 motifs, arrange them in a shell–placing 6 motifs around the center 7th  motif and prepare to assemble.

You will be working the assembly with only your center motif. All flanking motifs will be joined by one side to the center first, (we will join the rest later).

Take your center motif and any flanking motif and place them wrong sides together.

Using an E hook and your accent color, sl st into the ch 1 space, working back loops only, (Please keep in mind that your motifs will be sandwiched wrong sides together, so the back loops will be the two strands that are next to each other as in the pic below)

*sl st across to next ch 1 sp., sl st in ch 1 space and arrange your next flanking motif—wrong sides together, with the center motif. Sl st in ch 1 space of new motif and center motif. Continue from * until all flanking motifs are joined by one side to center motif.

The next thing we will need to do is to sew up the rest of the seams between each flanking motif.

There are two ways you can do this. Remember: when you join your motifs you want to make sure you are holding them wrong sides together.

The hard way: Since your yarn is already attached to your hook, simply sl st that first seam between the flanking pentagons closed–taking care to hold the motifs wrong sides together, finish off. Insert your hook into both ch 1 spaces at the base (close to the center pentagon) of the next two flanking pentagons. Attach your contrasting yarn with a sl st, sl st in the back loops only to the end of the pentagons and finish off. Continue around until all seams have been slip stitched closed. Weave in all those loose ends.

The easy way: The other way you could do it would involve a tapestry needle. Since your yarn is already attached to your hook, sl st that first seam between the flanking pentagons closed, finish off. Thread your tapestry needle with a long length of contrasting yarn and simply whip stitch the rest of your seams shut–taking care to whip-stitch in the back loops only and making sure that all of your motifs are being held wrong sides together. In order to move your needle, simply thread it under your project, hiding the extra yarn in the undersides of your stitches.

When you’ve finished sewing all the seams, your project should look like this:

If you’ve joined your motifs the hard way, now would be a good time to weave in all those loose tails in the center. Don’t worry about the loose tails that are to the outside of the shell because we’ll crochet right over them when we do the border.

Now we’re on the home stretch! The only thing left to do is the outlining and detail work (like the tail and the neck.)

In order to outline our motifs, you need to join your main color with a sl st in the first dc past any inside ch 1 space, ch 1 sc in the same stitch as join, *sc all the way across to the next ch 1 space (8 sc), 1 sc in the ch 1 space, sc all the way across to the next ch 1 space (8 sc), 1 sc in the ch 1 space, sc all the way across to the next ch 1 space (8 sc), sc2tog (you will be decreasing in both ch 1 spaces on each valley of your motif joins), continue from * around to the middle of next hill portion of the motif and add in your tail.

The tail actually looks adorable–but it’s really not necessary to add in…no one will notice it if you leave it off. BUT, if you wanted to add one in, now is the time. If you are leaving it off, skip this part and just continue your border from where you left off. If you are adding the tail, follow the border pattern until you get to the center of  the hill portion of a hexagon–any hexagon will do.

To get to the center of a hill portion, sc in the ch 1 sp, sc in the next 4 sts. Ch 8, (you can make this a little longer if you’d like. What you are going for here is sort of a one sided leaf shape.) In the second ch from hook, sl st, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sc in the next stitch on the motif, sc in the next 3 sts and continue your border around as in the pattern above. For the last stitch, join in the ch 1 and finish off.

Remember, you will want to put 1 sc in each ch 1 space in the hill portion of the motif and sc2tog in every valley potion of the motif.

The neck portion is also not necessary to do but it looks cute and I’m thinking you could sew a small button on to attach the hat when you want to store this. To complete the neck portion, find the motif at the top of your project (this should be fairly simple because the three motifs line up on on top of the other). Finding the top of the hill of the hexagon:

Row 1: Sl st in the ch 1 space, ch 3, dc in the next 8 sts, ch 3 and turn.

Row 2: dc in the next 7 sts, ch 3 and turn.

Row 3: dc in the next 7 sts, ch 3, finish off.

Note: If you’d rather have two separate pieces, leave the neck portion off.

All that’s left is to make a hat–and after all we’ve just been through, that’s going to be a snap!

Using a size H hook, Ch 4, join with sl st to first ch to form a ring.

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc throughout), dc 11 in the ring, sl st in top of beginning ch 3. (12 dc)

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st in top of beginning ch 3. (24 dc)

Row 3: Ch 3, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, *dc in next 2 sts, 2dc in next st; repeat from * to end of round, sl st in top of beginning ch 3. (32 dc)

Rows 4–9: Ch 3, dc in next st and in each st around. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Now that you’re all done, your completed project should look like this:

http://hodgepodgecrochet.wordpress.com: Free Pattern--Infant Turtle Shell "Blanket"

I hope you’ve had fun with this project. If you make one and want to share your pics, I’D LOVE TO SEE THEM! Pop on into our facebook group and post away!

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